From experiment to institution

Ernen in the Goms valley: a small, quiet village with barely five hundred inhabitants, around ten PostBus minutes from Fiesch. And yet here, between the bakery and the church, you sometimes meet one of the best pianists in the world. No sensation, no followers, just a quick greeting, a smile, then he’s gone again. This is where world class meets everyday life.

An experiment with consequences

There is a long history behind this. It began in the 1970s when Hungarian pianist György Sebök found the peace he had missed elsewhere in Ernen. Together with his wife Eva and a number of locals, he founded the Musikdorf Ernen Festival – an experiment that brought musicians from all over the world to the remote village in the Goms valley.

What began as a summer project became an institution. And the village? It did not remain merely a backdrop, but also became a player.

When music becomes everyday life

Today, music is omnipresent in Ernen. In summer, sounds come out of windows and doors, through the alleys and up to the slopes. Many of the old barns were converted into rehearsal rooms or small concert halls. You will find people playing, practising and singing in almost every corner of the village. More than 30 volunteers help out every year – many having done so for decades. They set up chairs, supervise admission and artists, and bring the idea of a music village into the village.

Music is now alive all year round with programmes such as the “Ensemble in Residence”: young chamber music groups spend up to two weeks in the village, rehearsing, performing and receiving lessons.

A new chapter: Schiff and the music centre

One of the most memorable stories of the present day in Ernen unfolded in 2020 when Sir András Schiff performed in the village for the first time after the lockdown – and came back because he was impressed by the place. Last summer, he announced he would be teaching his students in Ernen in the future. Together with the Musikdorf Ernen association, a music centre is being created for this purpose, offering year-round teaching and in-depth artistic development. This brings us full circle – and at the same time opens up a new chapter. The planned music centre is a natural development of what has always defined Ernen: concentration, intimacy and quality.

“The story remains the same,” says Inniger. “People come here because they want to connect with music in peace and depth.”

Village ecosystem

How does a town with 540 inhabitants in the Valais mountains manage to establish itself on the international map? With a love of music, high quality standards – and a functioning ecosystem. This ranges from committed residents, clubs, associations and local businesses to politicians and promoters. The supposed remoteness, which can be experienced here as a soothing calm, is part of a larger network. This is how the village and music inspire each other: well-kept gardens, the village square (Hengert) as a natural concert venue, chapels in the surrounding area – all this inspires the musicians; in turn, the festival creates artistic, intellectual and economic value for the community.

Closeness that lasts

Ernen remains open: no dress code, no prior knowledge required. Those who listen are automatically part of it – whether they are doing so for the first time or have done for years. And the programme is expanding beyond the summer: residencies in autumn, concerts at the turn of the year, events during the season from June to September with further plans towards 2027. The result is a year-round sound space that combines tradition and the new.

No one knows yet what Ernen will sound like in ten years’ time. But one thing is certain: music will continue to take root here. In the village, in the people, in everyday life.

And maybe you’ll come across one of the world’s best pianists again – somewhere between the bakery and the church. Let’s face it, nobody would be surprised.